So sorry for the delay in posting – my studio has been taken over by Quilt Market prep! I leave in just 3 days and I have made so much but still feel totally unprepared. It’s the downfall of market….but that’s a different post for anther day.
Today’s post is all about zippers! Raise your hand if zippers scare you? It’s ok, they used to scare me too. I once told a friend of mine that she didn’t need a zippered pocket in a bag I was making for her. Who uses a zippered pocket anyway?! I went to extreme lengths to avoid them. But now that I have realized that they aren’t so scary or hard I love them. Seriously, LOVE zippers!
At this point you should have all your fabrics picked out, cut and fused. The finished wallet has 2 separate zip pockets but we will make just one unit. Grab your outside interfaced zippered pocket pieces, lining pieces and 2 zippers. First thing we’ll do is make a sandwich. The fabric is the bread and the zipper is the meat – really that simple!
Place the zipper between one outside and one lining piece as described in Step 2 of your pattern. Sometimes trying to pin all 3 layers can be tricky – fabric shifts, zippers move. Here are a few pin tricks I use – see which one works for you. I usually pin one fabric layer to the zipper and then add the last piece. You can pin vertically or horizontally. My favorite way to install a zipper though is using 1/4″ wide fusible tape. You can fuse the zipper in place rather than pinning and it will stay securely where you need it. One thing I will mention though – if you sew with a scant 1/4″ seam allowance you may have a little sticky tape showing. The tape is exactly 1/4″ wide. I make sure that I have a “fat” seam allowance for this technique. And remember, sew with interfaced piece on top to prevent stretching.
My favorite method – fusible tape!
After you have sewn the zippers in place you can turn your piece and add the remaining outside & lining piece. Because you are sewing on opposite sides of the zipper, the piece itself will bow or bunch on you. Don’t worry -this is normal! It will flatten out once you finish the pocket.
You may be wondering why I chose to use 14″ zippers for a 7 1/2″ wide pocket. I have a couple reasons actually. For starters, I’m lazy. I’m extremely lazy. I love to buy zippers in tons of colors and keep an inventory so I have lots of choices but I hate sorting them by size. It sounds stupid but I just don’t have the storage or time to be organizing zippers. If I buy all 14″ long zippers then I can use them for all but 2 of my bag patterns. And for those patterns I use Annie’s double pull zippers which are the BEST for handbags. The other reason I use such a long zipper is to make the finishing and top stitching easier. Pressing this pocket nice and flat gives you a crisp, clean look which I can’t achieve with short zippers. The long zippers allow me to open up the pocket flat, press and topstitch with no issues.
Complete the pocket as per Step 2 by trimming the sides and stitching the edges. Set aside when done. Next up are the card pockets!
So now that you made a zippered pocket, are you still scared? Not bad right? See, I told you zippers weren’t hard 🙂
The next post for card pockets won’t be until November when I return from market / festival. In the meantime though if you choose to go ahead you can always email me or leave a comment here with any questions.
3 thoughts on “Prima Diva Sew Along Day 2 – Zippers”
I wish I had more time to participate. I have the pattern, I have the hardware, I just need the time! Think this may have to be a 2016 project!
When closing the pocket, do you sew over the trimmed zippers? Or just on the material?
You will sew over the ends of the zipper as well.