Prima Diva Sew Along Day 2 – Zippers

So sorry for the delay in posting – my studio has been taken over by Quilt Market prep!  I leave in just 3 days and I have made so much but still feel totally unprepared.  It’s the downfall of market….but that’s a different post for anther day.

Today’s post is all about zippers!  Raise your hand if zippers scare you?  It’s ok, they used to scare me too. I once told a friend of mine that she didn’t need a zippered pocket in a bag I was making for her.  Who uses a zippered pocket anyway?!  I went to extreme lengths to avoid them.  But now that I have realized that they aren’t so scary or hard I love them.  Seriously, LOVE zippers!

At this point you should have all your fabrics picked out, cut and fused.  The finished wallet has 2 separate zip pockets but we will make just one unit.  Grab your outside interfaced zippered pocket pieces, lining pieces and 2 zippers.  First thing we’ll do is make a sandwich.  The fabric is the bread and the zipper is the meat – really that simple!

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Place the zipper between one outside and one lining piece as described in Step 2 of your pattern.  Sometimes trying to pin all 3 layers can be tricky – fabric shifts, zippers move.  Here are a few pin tricks I use – see which one works for you.  I usually pin one fabric layer to the zipper and then add the last piece.  You can pin vertically or horizontally.  My favorite way to install a zipper though is using 1/4″ wide fusible tape.  You can fuse the zipper in place rather than pinning and it will stay securely where you need it.  One thing I will mention though – if you sew with a scant 1/4″ seam allowance you may have a little sticky tape showing.  The tape is exactly 1/4″ wide.  I make sure that I have a “fat” seam allowance for this technique.  And remember, sew with interfaced piece on top to prevent stretching.

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Place the zippers face down on the outside of piece as described in Step 2

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Pin horizontally or vertically

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Place the lining right sides together and some more pins.

My favorite method – fusible tape!

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Fuse the tape to the right side of the outside, peel off paper and fuse zipper in place.                                                              You can fuse or pin the lining in place.

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After you have sewn the zippers in place you can turn your piece and add the remaining outside & lining piece.  Because you are sewing on opposite sides of the zipper, the piece itself will bow or bunch on you.  Don’t worry  -this is normal!  It will flatten out once you finish the pocket.

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Don’t worry if it bunches. It will flatten out!

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Place the outsides right sides together and the linings right sides together.

You may be wondering why I chose to use 14″ zippers for a 7 1/2″ wide pocket.  I have a couple reasons actually.  For starters, I’m lazy.  I’m extremely lazy.  I love to buy zippers in tons of colors and keep an inventory so I have lots of choices but I hate sorting them by size.  It sounds stupid but I just don’t have the storage or time to be organizing zippers.  If I buy all 14″ long zippers then I can use them for all but 2 of my bag patterns.  And for those patterns I use Annie’s double pull zippers which are the BEST for handbags. The other reason I use such a long zipper is to make the finishing and top stitching easier.  Pressing this pocket nice and flat gives you a crisp, clean look which I can’t achieve with short zippers.  The long zippers allow me to open up the pocket flat, press and topstitch with no issues.

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Topstitch along each side of the zippers.

Complete the pocket as per Step 2 by trimming the sides and stitching the edges.  Set aside when done.  Next up are the card pockets!

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Trim edges, clip or pin and stitch the side. Voila! A finished pocket!

So now that you made a zippered pocket, are you still scared?  Not bad right?  See, I told you zippers weren’t hard 🙂

The next post for card pockets won’t be until November when I return from market / festival.  In the meantime though if you choose to go ahead you can always email me or leave a comment here with any questions.

Happy Sewing!

Jessica

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One thought on “Prima Diva Sew Along Day 2 – Zippers

  1. I wish I had more time to participate. I have the pattern, I have the hardware, I just need the time! Think this may have to be a 2016 project!

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